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Nov 25

Burlap Christmas Stocking Crafts


IMG_0264-4I’ve been looking at these Simple Burlap Stockings in the studio for quite some time now thinking what a great canvas they would be for Christmas colors.  Last weekend I finally found some time to “play” with the stockings.  When you start with a basic element like the Simple Stocking, the majority of the work has already been done for you.  You can just jump right into the fun part of embellishing!  This is especially good if you want to make a variety of similar but different products to sell as a craft.  The stockings I made will be placed in a local craft store and hopefully finding new homes before Christmas but I wanted to show them to you here and maybe inspire you to get your Christmas craft on!

I’ve in love with this tea dyed vintage style Venetian lace that we have now so I used it on most of my stockings.  I think the soft, elegant but shabby style of the lace is a great combo with the rougher, rustic burlap.  I also used homespun yoyos, ribbon, and fabric to create a variety of different styled designs.

Today I took a good look at our Ruffled Burlap Stocking and decided maybe it could be a good canvas also.  The oh-so-cute ruffle at the top of the stocking seemed to give it a more playful attitude so for this stocking, I embellished with our new Christmas color wood buttons, brightly colored rick rack, fabric, burlap flowers and jute string.

No two are the same which is what made this project so fun.  Using the pre-made burlap stockings as a canvas for embellishing is what made these crafts super quick and easy.  These stockings are great for family craft night yet they are economical enough to sell them at a craft show for a little Christmas cash.

If the Christmas craft bug has you now, make sure that you are on our mailing list.  Stefanie is planning some Cyber Monday specials in the Homespun & Burlap Christmas category this year.

So plug in a little Christmas music, grab some hot cider and tour my embellished Christmas stockings.  Enjoy!







 ”May your unfailing love be with us, Lord, even as we put our hope in you.”

Psalm 33:22


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May 08

Americana Ragged Style Wall Hanging

FlagHangingOne of our customers, Michael E., recently sent us some pics of his rag style quilting projects.  We featured a couple of those in our last post and I was so inspired by his creativity that I decided to do a similar wall hanging design with a simple tutorial.  A big shout out to Michael for letting me be a “copy cat” and do something similar!

So here’s my version of the Americana Ragged Style Wall Hanging.  This project is easily adapted to any size that you want.  Mine ended up being about 30″ x 24″.  The fabric yardages listed are estimates but if you have left over fabric, you can always create some coordinating “accessories” like I’ll show you at the end of the tutorial.

Materials list:

*Homespun fabric is highly recommended.  It is the only fabric that will fray as shown in the pictures.

  • Cut 6 strips of red fabric:  3″ x 32″
  • Cut 6 strips of ecru (or white) fabric: 3″ x 32″
  • Cut 6 strips of ecru (or white) fabric: 3″ x 17.5″
  • Cut 8 strips of red fabric: 3″ x 17.5″
  • Cut 14 strips of blue fabric: 3″ x 15.5″
  • Cut 1 piece of red fabric approx 33″ x 26″ (backing)
  • Cut 1 piece of batting approx 30″ x 24″
  • Print your star pattern pieces from this PDF file
  • Cut 4 of the star side pieces from the ecru fabric
  • Cut 4 of the star bottom pieces from the ecru fabric
  • Cut 2 of the star top pieces from the ecru fabric


  1. For this project, all your fabric stripes on the front of the flag will be two layers thick.  This will help make your frayed seams fluffier.  So when the directions say to stitch a white strip to a red strip, keep in mind that each strip needs to be two layers thick.  All seams will be 5/8″ unless otherwise noted.
  2. Do all your “tie down” stitching at the beginning and ending of each seam about 5/8″ away from the edge.  This is because the last 5/8″ of all seams will become fray when it is washed.  As with all rag stitching, lighten the pressure of the presser foot if your machine allows that or stitch with a walking foot.  If you don’t have either of these options, just pin very closely so that the fabric won’t slide while stitching.
  3. All your raw seam allowances are going to have to be clipped at some point.  Most of the time, I prefer to clip at the end but in this case, I found it very easy to clip the long strips before I started sewing.  You may either do as I did in these pics and clip now or you can clip at the end if you’re more comfortable with that.  I found that I could clips several layers at once this by clipping now.  To “clip” the seam allowances, you’ll want to make small clips in the raw edges about 1/2″ deep and about 1/2″ apart.  Don’t clip the short ends yet.  You may be trimming those.IMG_8140
  4. Stitch the 6 long strips of red and 6 long strips of ecru together lengthwise, alternating colors.  Each strip will be doubled so you’ll have three red and three ecru stripes when finished as shown in the image.IMG_8145
  5. Stitch the 8 remaining red strips and the 6 remaining ecru strips together in the same way.
  6. Stitch the 14 blue strips together just like the other sets.
  7. Now stitch the blue strips to the shorter red strips matching up the seams.  Lay the seam allowances all in one direction.
  8. Clip the seam allowance loose after stitching so that the seam allowances are free and not stitched down.
  9. The upper part of the flag base is complete.  Now stitch this to the long red strips keeping the blue portion on the upper left.  Press the flag out flat and preferable keep all seams folding in one direction.
  10. At this time, you may realize that some of the strips have ended up being a bit longer than the others.  That’s fine… “close enough is good enough” in rag stitching.  To remedy this, just trim your flag base slightly on both right and left sides so that all the strips line up nicely.  Use a yard stick to draw a line if needed and make sure that the length of the top edge is still the same as the length of the bottom edge after trimming.IMG_8157
  11. Place the batting material on the pressed flag on the side WITHOUT the seam allowances.  The seam allowances of the flag should be facing your table, away from the batting.  Trim the batting so that it is at least 1.5 inches smaller than the flag on all sides.
  12. Place the red backing material on top of the batting to form a “sandwich” with the batting in the middle.  Pin the edges to hold it all in place and flip it over so that the flag is on top with the seam allowances up.IMG_8152
  13. Now trim the backing to fit the size of the flag if needed.IMG_8156
  14. Pin frequently along all the outer edges and the seams.  Stitch on top of the long stripe seams through all the thicknesses.  This will “quilt” the wall hanging.  A walking foot on your machine can be helpful here.  If you don’t have one, just life the presser foot occasionally to ease the top layer of fabric in.  If you have occasional tucks and puckers, don’t worry over it.  The fray will fluff out over those seams and hide many flaws!  “Close enough is good enough” in rag stitching!  :-) IMG_8164
  15. Now stitch your star together.  The star has one point at the top, two points on the sides and two points on the bottom.  The pattern pieces are marked accordingly but they are very similar in size so if you get them mixed up, it really won’t be very noticeable.  The pic below shows how the star pieces lay out.  The short sides are the ones that stitch together, the long sides are the points that extend and the arrows show you which end goes to the center of the star.IMG_3355Just like the stripes, the star pieces will also be two layers thick.  Your seam allowances on the star will be 1/2″.  The small star on the pattern pieces shows you which end goes to the center of the stars.  The other end of the point is on the outer part.  Press the star flat after stitching.  The “front side” of the star is the side with the seam allowances.IMG_8151
  16. Pin the star onto the center of the blue stripe portion of your flag.  Stitch about 1/2″ from the outer edges.IMG_8175
  17. Stitch around the entire perimeter of the entire flag about 5/8″ from the raw edge.  I call this a victory lap because it always seems to be the last sewing step!
  18. Clip any raw edges that you haven’t clipped already.  If you didn’t clip in the first step, you’ll have a lot to clip now.  If you did clip in the first step, you’ll need to clip the right and left sides, the backing, the star and the seam between the blue and the red/white stripes.  Be very careful that you don’t clip through any stitching when making your clips.
  19. Wash your flag hanging in a washing machine.  I recommend using a high water level even for this one item so that you’ll have minimal color bleed from the red fabric.  I also recommend using about 1/4-1/2 cup of table salt in the wash water to help set the fabric dye.  Liquid fabric softener will help loosen the strings but it’s not required.  After washing, take the flag outside and shake loose the remaining strings before you put it in the dryer.  Tumble dry and then shake loose even more strings!  You’ll also want to stop the dryer at least once or twice and clean the lint screen.
  20. After washing and drying, check to make sure your flag is hanging fairly straight.  You can gently stretch any short sides if necessary.  You can also wet it again and lay it out flat and square to dry.  Press from the back side if any ironing is needed.
  21. Cut seven pieces of the burlap ribbon (6.5″ – 7″ long) and stitch them onto the back side of the flag to make some loops for hanging.  These I applied after the washing and drying was done.  I just stitched through all thicknesses (flag and burlap).  I made the loops long enough that I could stitch them twice, once following the the first seam of the flag and then again following the second seam.  I think there are many ways you could find to hang this wall hanging or you could display it on a table or coffee table as is without any loops.


When you are rag stitching, scraps are never just scraps… they are pieces of fabric begging to become a coordinating accessory!  These are a couple of goodies, a cute Americana heart pillow and some Americana star quilted coasters, that I made with my left over fabric from this project.  They will look great with my wall hanging and decorate my house so nicely for Memorial Day and then again on Independence Day.  The star coasters can even embellish a decorative banner for the wall.  Oh, the things you can do with scraps and rags!



Jan 21

Super Easy Shabby Chevron Pillow

IMG_7362If you love chevron design and you love the shabby rag style, you will definitely want to check out this Super Easy Shabby Chevron Pillow pattern!  Featured below are all the instructions and tons of pictures to help you create this fun accent pillow.  Sewing skills required are minimal and it should only take you 2-3 hours to complete.  This is a perfect quick project for these long winter evenings.

I chose Warm Red 2 & Ecru homespun to do my chevron design but this design works well with any combination of homespun fabrics.  You may want to use contrasting fabrics like I did for a bold look or this would look really nice in complementary similar fabrics for a more subtle chevron look.  In either case, Jubilee Fabric has a great assortment of over 150 different primitive homespun fabrics for you to choose from for you own unique pillow design.IMG_7363

What makes this pattern “super easy” is that there are no small pieces to cut out and no small pieces to stitch together.  This chevron design is first stitched together in long strips and then cut on the diagonal to form the chevron.  That will greatly speed up the time that you invest to this project.  The finished size of this pillow is approximately 18″ x 21″.   It is important to use homespun fabric because regular cotton fabric will just not fray as well.

Happy stitching!   … and if you make one of these, send us a pic!  We love to see what our customers are making!

Super Easy Shabby Chevron Pillow


Materials you will need:

  • Fabric 1 – 1 yard homespun fabric
  • Fabric 2 -1 yard contrasting or complimenting homespun fabric
  • Fabric 3 – 3 fat quarters (or one yard) in yet another coordinating homespun fabric
  • 2 squares of low-loft or felt type batting size approximately 16 x 20
  • thread, 2 sheets of blank copy paper & a yard stick or ruler.
  • 1 large bag of pillow fiber-fill (available at department & craft stores)


    1. From Fabric 1 cut 6 strips of fabric from selvage to selvage.  Each strip should measure 4″ wide and approximately 43″-44″ long.
    2. From Fabric 2 cut 5 strips of fabric from selvage to selvage.  Each strip should measure 4″ wide and approximately 43″-44″ long.
    3. From the Fabric 3 fat quarters, cut three pieces 18″ x 22″.
    4. Always backstitch each seam to secure it but do the backstitch about 5/8″ from the beginning.  That first 5/8″ of most seams will become “fray” and will not hold the backstitch.
    5. Stitch the strips of fabric 1 and fabric 2 together with a 5/8″ seam, starting with fabric 1 and alternating with fabric 2.

    6. Clip all the raw edges of the seams (you don’t need to clip the outer perimeter edges) about 1/2 inch apart and about 1/2 inch deep.  It doesn’t matter at all if the ends come out even or not because they will be cut away eventually.  Make sure you don’t clip into the stitch line.  If you do, restitch it immediately and seal it with something to prevent fraying like No Fray liquid.
    7. When all the strips are stitched together and clipped, press the raw seams all toward the same direction.  Press from the other side also to make sure your seams are flattened.IMG_7304
    8. Carefully tape your two copy paper pieces together matching up the short sides.  Then along one side use your ruler or yard stick to trace off a segment measuring 4.5″ x 18″.  Cut this out.  It will be your pattern piece for the chevron design.
    9. Fold your striped block in half lengthwise with the clipped sides out.  Match up the seams on the unfolded edge so that the stripes are exactly identical on the front and the back.  Put some pins randomly throughout to hold it into place.IMG_7309
    10. Now this is the only tricky part.  If you get this right, the chevron design will turn out perfect.  But even if you don’t get this right, you’ll still have a super herringbone design!  So don’t stress but do try to get this lined up right.<br/ ><br/ >***
      Place the pattern piece on the striped block at a diagonal.  Put the lower left corner of the pattern piece exactly touching the stitched seam in the lower left corner of the striped block as shown in the pictures below.  Place the upper right corner exactly touching the stitched seam four rows across.  Study the pictures if this sounds confusing.IMG_7306IMG_7306-2
    11. Now trace this piece and repeat the process two more times, placing the pattern piece on your striped block so that each cut out has the same striping pattern.  Place some pins inside the traced cutouts so the upper or lower fabric won’t shift.  Then cut out all three pieces, cutting through both layers.  See images below of the finished cut outs.IMG_7317
    12. Unpin the first cutout and re-pin it just as it was but with the clipped edges on the inside this time.  Try to match up the seams carefully.  (These seams will be the v’s of your chevron design.)  Stitch along the right side with fabric 2 at the top and fabric 1 at the bottom.IMG_7318
    13. Do this with all three cutouts and open them as shown below.IMG_7321
    14. Line up the three rectangle pieces as shown in the picture below.  The pattern should be exactly the same in all of them.IMG_7323
    15. Stitch the three pieces together in the same pattern as they are shown above.  Stitch them together with the clipped edges on the inside.
    16. Press the long seams flat.  This side shown below is the BACK side of your pillow block.  The front side has the clipped edges.IMG_7326
    17. Place one of the batting/felt pieces into the center of one of the fabric 3 pieces.  Trim batting/felt if necessary to make it approximately 1″ from the edge on all sides.  If it’s more than 1″ in places, don’t worry about it.  If you have the quilt basting spray, spray both sides of the batting lightly to help hold it in place while stitching.IMG_7327
    18. Place the stitched chevron block on top to create a sort of “sandwich” with the batting/felt in the middle.  Make sure the clipped edges of the chevron piece are facing out.  Pin on all sides and randomly across all the stitch lines.IMG_7336
    19. Create a similar “sandwich” with the two remaining fabric 3 pieces and the one remaining batting/felt piece.  Use the quilt basting spray again on the batting (optional).  Trim the batting/felt as needed and pin all three layers together.IMG_7328
    20. From the front side of the chevron “sandwich”, stitch a quilting stitch through all three layers following the stitch line of the seams.  This will create a chevron quilt pattern on the back side.  Which unfortunately, will be hidden inside the pillow but because it’s pretty, I’m adding a pic of the backside also.  :-) IMG_7338IMG_7340
    21. Stitch a line across the center of the bottom edge about 6″ wide and 5/8″ from the edge.  This will secure the layers when you are stuffing the pillow later on.
    22. Stitch the other “sandwich” together by adding some quilting lines.  You can do this however you wish just as long as you stitch the three layers together.  You can follow the design of the fabric or draw some lines to stitch on with a pen that will wash out.  Be creative!  It doesn’t need a lot of stitching; just enough to hold the batting in place when it’s washed.  Stitch a 6″ span in the center of the bottom of the panel that matches up with the 6″ span at the bottom of the front panel.IMG_7341
    23. Place the second sandwich flat on the table and place the first one over it with the clipped edges facing out and matching up the 6″ spans as best you can.  They don’t need to match exactly.  Pin in place.  Stitch around the perimeter about 1″ from the edge beginning with one end of the 6″ span and ending with the other end.  This will leave a hole in the pillow where you can stuff it later on.
    24. Clip the outer raw edges of the pillow.  On the corners, make a diagonal clip as shown below.  Be very careful not to cut into the stitching line while making your clips.IMG_7349
    25. Wash your pillow before stuffing it.  Machine wash in cold and tumble dry.  Use a liquid fabric softener if possible to help loosen the threads for the “fray”.  Between washing and drying, take the pillow outside and shake it to remove a lot of the strings.  Also, you’ll probably want to stop the dryer at least once and clean the lint trap of strings.
    26. After it’s dry, stuff the pillow through the opening at the bottom with some fiber-fill of your choice.  Then machine stitch or hand stitch the opening closed and enjoy your Shabby Chevron Pillow!




 ”Rest in the Lord and wait patiently for Him.”
Psalm 37:7